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Essex
The Activity
In our opinion, Essex has Connecticutís quintessential Main Streetólovely historic homes on an early 1800s tree-lined street, complete with white picket fences, American flags, and flower gardens lovingly cared for in small side lots or front yards.
This street also contains everything a resident could ever want or need. Okay, it doesnít have a movie theater or a gas
station. But, it does have a post office, banks, bookstore, toy
shop, clothing stores, gift and specialty stores, grocers, sandwich and ice cream shops, and restaurants, including the historic Griswold Inn. Oh yes, a church, a park, and even professionals and organizations, such as the Nature Conservancy have their offices here. All this and more co-exists amicably in hardly more than a one-half mile setting.
We park at the top of Main Street and stroll down one side
and up the other, stopping in shops that intrigue us and just enjoying the quaintness of this picturesque village. There is a short diversion to our circuit, however, when we reach the foot of Main Street. The Essex Steamboat Dock, directly in front of us, causes us to pause for a view of the river, then when we make a quarter turn to the left we spot the Connecticut River Museum.
Our curiosity leads us up the path to its door. The museum has been a small treasure here for thirty years, but the warehouse building itself has quite a historic significance.
It was built in 1878 for the steamboat traffic between Hartford
and New York, replacing earlier commercial wharf structures
dating back to 1650, when colonial ships traded with the West Indies. Imagine! The first American warship, the Oliver
Cromwell, was built here during the Revolutionary War.
Main Street Essex
Directions: Interstates 95 or 91 to Route 9, exit 3. Follow signs to Essex Main Street.
Connecticut River Museum
Address: 67 Main Street, Essex, CT 06426.
Telephone: (860) 767-8269.
Website: www.ctrivermuseum.org.
Hours: Tue-Sun 10-5.
Admission: Adults $6; Seniors & Students $5; Children (6-15) $3; Age 5 & under free.
Note: The Museum will be closed for renovations from February through April 2006.
143 Main Street, Essex
The exhibits, both changing and permanent, recount the history of the Connecticut River Valley and the influence that the river and the residents had on each other. Today, the first floor is taken up with an exhibit that examines the nineteenth century through the life of East Haddamís William Goodspeed.
Goodspeed, the owner of a steamboat line, had many interests. Among them was his love of theater, which in 1877 prompted him to build Goodspeed Opera House, the tallest, grandest, and most conspicuous structure along the river until well into the twentieth century. After his death in 1882, the ìVictorian wedding cake,î as the opera house was sometimes called, served a variety of odd uses, none of which were befitting this grand structure. Thankfully, in the late 1950s it was restored to the musical theater we enjoy today. We like the way information is presented in a visitor-friendly manner through exhibits, a video, prints, and photographs. Come to think of it, everything about the Village of Essex is visitor friendly, just as it must have been 350 years ago. Although our focus is on shopping (technically, the museum qualifies because it has a giftshop) there is so much more to Essex. No need to limit your meanderings to
Main Street. Stroll down the village lanes to check out the marina and shipyard, or, for a more organized tour, pick up a Walking Map at the Connecticut River Museum. Just remember, the most strenuous activity here is "strolling." I guarantee you will not see a single soul hurrying or scurrying aboutóI think there is a town ordinance against it.
The Picnic
144 Main Street, Essex
E ssex Town Park, on the west side of Main Street, snuggles right into the charm of industrial Main Street. The grassy area leads down to Middle Cove, an estuary of the Connecticut River, where we sit on a bench and listen to the water lazily lapping against the moored sailboats. There is a nice variety of trees in the park, all with name markers, and a pagoda complete with benches.
Finally, after all our curiosities about this park are satisfied, we buy fresh peaches from the Farmer's Market. Lunch is at the designated picnic section, a freeform, stone-edged space with four tables and a large sugar maple for shade. This area is tucked just far enough away from the sidewalk for a feeling of privacy and relaxation, yet close enough to be aware of the shoppers and street strollers. Hey, wait for us!
FYI:
As this book goes to print the park is in the midst of being renovated. A new picnic area, expected to be completed by late spring or early summer, will be situated closer to the cove. This new location should offer a great view to picnickers.
What's In Our Picnic Basket?
145 Main Street, Essex
Shrimp Cocktail
Gourmet Crackers
Garden Salad
Fresh Squeezed Lemonade
Fresh Squeezed Lemonade
(Courtesy of Holly McCarthy)
Lemonade is the ultimate hot weather drink, and this recipe finds the perfect balance between sweet and tart. There is an added step with the syrup-making process, but the result is well worth the effort.
4-6 ripe lemons
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
Wash lemons. Cut in half. Squeeze lemons to make 1 cup. Depending on the lemons, you may get less juice. If necessary, adjust the water and sugar accordingly.
Set aside.
Cut half of the squeezed lemons in slices and remove rinds.
Put water and sugar in covered saucepan. Add rinds. Bring to a boil.
Remove cover and simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and cool. Strain into pitcher.
Add the lemon juice and 5-1/2 cups cold water. Stir and refrigerate.
Servings: 6 eight-ounce glasses.
Fun Alternative
146 Main Street, Essex
For pink lemonade you can add a couple of drops of red food coloring. However, I prefer to add a teaspoon per glass of either maraschino cherry juice or cranberry juice cocktail. Either of these juices will alter the taste slightly, but it is a nice change on occasion.
While I was vacationing in England a few years ago, friends introduced me to a charming pub and a popular English drink. A Shandy is made with one-half light ale and one-half lemonade. Today, I like it even better, because unlike the English, I use fresh lemonade and lots and lots of ice.
Now, if I could only duplicate the inviting pub atmosphere!
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Jan Mann, a Connecticut native, has spent more than twenty years search for the state’s best recreational activities. Add facilities for picnicking and eclectic new recipes, and Cruising Connecticut with a Picnic Basket has all the ingredients for a made-to-order day trip.
Janice Mann
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