Choosing to vacation in one’s own backyard is an enviable desire enjoyed only by those residents of the world’s largest, most refined cities and bluest Caribbean paradises…and the Borough of Stonington, Connecticut.
That’s exactly how Borough Warden Don Maranell sees the New England seaside village he calls home.
"Sometimes my wife and I will take a week, pack up, walk down the street, and check into the Inn at Stonington," admits Maranell, who owns and operates Yellow House Coffee & Tea, a popular meeting place. "The borough is just such a cool place to vacation."
Indeed, the compact borough may be the shoreline’s best-kept secret. With a tidy population of 1,000 residents and an annual budget of just $1 million, the borough boasts awe-inspiring views of Long Island Sound and an assortment of shops, restaurants, and attractions eclectic enough to keep the inveterate traveler enthralled. The borough combines authentic New England flavor with a quiet sophistication beyond its narrow physical scope—it’s both the home of Connecticut’s last commercial fishing fleet and a uniquely nurturing Mecca for aspiring artists.
Stonington borough’s extraordinary atmosphere has its roots in the area’s storied past. First settled by outsiders in the 17th century, the borough’s location quickly secured it an important position in early American history. Area residents played key roles in deflecting British attacks during the Revolutionary War, then again during the War of 1812. The canons used in those defensives still stand in the borough as solid reminders of struggle and perseverance.
Today, Stonington Harbor and the Town Dock continue to reverberate with the echoes of centuries of maritime history, and the borough’s location seems as relevant as ever. The same geography that protected Stonington from unexpected assails and attracted settlers hundreds of years ago now captivates visitors and residents. Few vistas compare to that waiting at The Point at the bottom of Water Street, the borough’s main thoroughfare. Here, New York, Connecticut, and Rhode Island disappear into one breathtaking horizon.
The Old Lighthouse Museum, which dates back to the 1800s, is but a single example of the borough’s countless landmarks.
"We live in a town people pay to come to…It’s the ‘land of milk and honey,’" enthuses Maranell, who adds that part of what distinguishes the borough from surrounding communities is its "Yankee independence."
Not only is there literally no space for "big box" stores and homogenous developments in the borough, there’s also no place for such influences in the minds of its people. A casual stroll through the center of the village offers up an exhaustive array of eateries, a virtual anti-mall of fashions, artworks, and antiques, and gathering places ranging from the affordable to the high-end. This is Main Street, U.S.A., in the best sense of the phrase.
"Everybody walks everywhere," notes Maranell. "Town and city planners always talk about ‘cluster planning’—well, this is what planners want. This is what they’re striving for…Only, here, it’s original. We don’t have to do a lot of streetscape work."
The idyllic layout and interconnectedness of Stonington borough give way to the laid-back, low-key vibe its residents exude.
"We’re more intimate in the way things are done here," says Maranell. "Everybody’s just so polite…and there’s no such thing as big-city politics."
What motivates residents is a collective, do-it-yourself spirit and commitment to maintaining the borough’s heritage. The borough has bonded money for a capital project only once in its history, choosing instead to form public-private coalitions to address infrastructure and preservation issues. One such organization, the Stonington Village Improvement Association, recently turned its attention to restoring historic Cannon Square.
"As opposed to collecting through taxes…with these public-private associations, everyone can feel like they’re part of a project; everyone can donate or contribute," explains Maranell.
The borough’s close-knit circle of artists thrives because of this attitude, as well. A "Writers-in-Residence-Program" has brought literary giant J.D. McClatchey to the village for the year, ensuring that the place renowned poet James Merrill once called home will remain an inspirational oasis of creativity. Even the local coffee shop doubles as an impromptu gallery for rising artists. And, on a pleasant afternoon, painters line the borough’s sidewalks, practicing their craft.
Given all of this energy and history, it seems hard to believe that so many people are still unfamiliar with Stonington borough. With a little thinking outside the box and a few extra miles of driving, though, the borough promises to deliver an experience like no other.
"If you’re looking to get away or you’re looking to do the Mystic [Seaport] thing, then the borough is part of the experience…Some of the stuff you read about and hear about comes alive here."
Of course, it would impossible to get the full flavor of the borough without attending the annual Blessing of the Fleet and the accompanying events designed to celebrate and perpetuate the state’s only remaining commercial fishing outfit—a phenomenon due in large part to the borough’s rich Portuguese heritage.
"The Blessing of the Fleet is like Stonington Town Reunion," exclaims Maranell.
And, as it does all other days in the borough, the "nice, friendly, come-see-us" attitude applies.
To begin your own inside journey of Stonington borough, visit www.stoningtonboroughct.gov.