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Inspiration

Counter Culture—A Connecticut Comfort Food Road Trip

By Will Siss

The closest thing to time travel is a diner. Settling into a stool at the clean Formica counter or easing yourself into a plush booth, you’re transported to an era when people kept their eyes on each other, not a gadget. Perhaps we need them more than ever. Connecticut has plenty of diners and cafes built on integrity. Owners take pride in their prompt service, not to mention their thick-cut fries and blue-plate specials. Hop in. We’re taking a road trip! 

Tree Rings & Onion Rings

Pulling into a spot at Sycamore Drive-In Restaurant in Bethel, we could simply flash the lights and receive one of the hallmarks of classic diner traditions: curb service from an attentive carhop. But we’ll leave the car behind and stride into this gem that takes its name from a 300-year-old tree just a few dozen yards from the humble-looking spot. Family-owned by the Austins for nearly 20 years, this cozy joint, that dates back to 1948, has all the trappings of a vintage diner: the checkerboard floor, Naugahyde stools and a long counter with a soda fountain that serves homemade root beer. The menu isn’t frozen in the past, however; it offers six different salads, including one with cranberries, walnuts, feta cheese and grilled chicken. Or, wrap your hands around their original steak burger for a taste of a true classic.

The Summer Cruise Nights on Saturdays bring folks from around the region as the block shuts down and the Mustangs, GTOs and Cadillacs take center stage. “There are so many people who tell me that they met here, that they had their first date here,” owner Patrick Austin said. “Coming here is kind of a tradition.” 

Coleslaw with a Twist

Simplicity is the key at Glenwood Drive-In in Hamden, where the service is fast and the hot dogs are long and perfectly charred. Known for their onion rings, hot relish and a unique twist on coleslaw (with just a little bit of pineapple), Glenwood has everything that a fast-food chain wishes it had: authenticity and high-quality food served quickly.

Upon entering the Glenwood, enjoy fried shrimp or savor a lobster roll at one of the 17 tables or one of the 12 swivel chairs. While the Glenwood is a drive-in by name only, you can certainly enjoy an order of clam strips or soft-shell crab at one of the outdoor tables. And when you’re done, there’s Kelly’s Cone Connection, an ice-cream parlor that shares the same building.

Like all great road trips, this one ends with a desire to seek out even more classic Connecticut diners exploding with character, and flavor. Find other great places to eat in Connecticut, here.

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